A perfume to evoke Spring — part I | EPI 010 Podcast All Roads Lead to Aroma
The podcast 'All Roads Lead to Aroma' is a podcast sponsored by Jarilo. In this podcast, Mariana, Jarilo's founder, explores the world of perfumery and tries to discover how a perfume is made.
This article is the transcript of EPI 010. A perfume to evoke Spring — part I
[Start of transcript]
↳ In episode 4, I gave a list of 8 ingredients you could acquire to start your studies in perfumery.
Today, I will use these materials to develop and create a perfume.
The idea is to create a perfume that I feel comfortable wearing daily.
↳ In this episode — which will be only part I of the process, as I don't know how long (days, weeks, months) it will take me to complete this perfume — I will list the ingredients I will use, define the concept and purpose of this perfume, and thus create an initial structure.
↳ So the ingredients I will use are:
BERGAMOT EO DILUTED TO 10%
YLANG YLANG EO DILUTED TO 1%
LAVANDIN EO DILUTED TO 10%
HEDIONE DILUTED TO 20%
ISO E SUPER DILUTED TO 20%
AMBROXAN DILUTED TO 1%
but instead of using SANDALWOOD and VANILLA ABS as indicated in episode 4, I will replace them with POLYSANTOL DILUTED TO 10% and VANILLIN DILUTED TO 10% because at the moment I don't have reserves of SANDALWOOD or VANILLA ABS.
↳ First, I should define the concept and purpose of this perfume, that is: what sensation (or combination of several sensations) I want this perfume to convey, and on what occasions it can/should be used — whether it is for daytime or nighttime use or both/anytime.
Normally, in principle, one immediately thinks about the concept/purpose/objective of the perfume and only then chooses the ingredients to be used.
But — as I want to use the ingredients from episode 4 — I will reverse the process and define the purpose of this perfume by thinking about the characteristics of the already chosen ingredients.
↳ When smelling the chosen ingredients, I imagined a perfume to wear on one of those oppressive winter days when it rains profusely, interminably, and when we have to leave the house early in the morning, and we greatly miss/long for the mild spring weather, and all we wanted most was a beautiful day to surround our routine.
↳ In other words, simply put: a perfume to evoke Spring on a rainy day — a cold and grey winter day.
↳ Among the ingredients, we have flowers, citrus, wood, vanilla.
So, I will create a floral accord to give the perfume a spring ambiance, an accord with POLYSANTOL and VANILLIN to give that warm/comforting feeling we so need on gloomy days, and an accord with the molecules to give the proper texture.
↳ Let's start with the FLORAL ACCORD, which will be the star of our perfume. This accord has BERGAMOT, which brings freshness and makes the perfume more open, it has YLANG YLANG, which adds an exotic, creamy, and very floral touch, and it has LAVANDIN which punctuates with a more herbaceous character and which, for me personally, strongly reminds me of Spring.
↳ So I make this accord in the proportion of 3 parts BERGAMOT to 1 part YLANG YLANG to 1 part LAVANDIN.
↳ Next, let's move on to the WARM ACCORD, which will be the base of our perfume.
This accord has POLYSANTOL which brings a woody and enveloping depth, and it has VANILLIN which punctuates with a sweet and comforting touch.
↳ So I make this accord in the proportion of 1 part POLYSANTOL to 2 parts VANILLIN.
↳ Finally, we will deal with the MOLECULE ACCORD, which will serve to give texture to the perfume.
This accord has HEDIONE which brings transparency, it has ISO E SUPER which adds a woody/velvety effect, and it has AMBROXAN which punctuates with a more full-bodied sensation.
↳ I make this accord in the proportion of 2 parts HEDIONE to 2 parts ISO E SUPER to 1 part AMBROXAN.
↳ Now, we will combine the three accords to create our perfume, following the proportion: 4 parts FLORAL ACCORD to 1 part WARM ACCORD to 2 parts MOLECULE ACCORD.
↳ The first impressions of this perfume are interesting: it opens with a delicate, very pleasant floral freshness, and from that, I think I might intensify that same floral touch, making it more robust and present.
In turn, the base of the perfume proves to be warm/enveloping and brings immediate comfort, perfect for those very rainy days, as I imagined.
↳ With this first version of our perfume finally created, I still need to test how it will behave on the skin.
Will it evolve as I imagine?
In the routine of the next few days, I will wear the perfume myself — and then, in part II of this process (an episode I don't yet know when I will publish), I will tell you how the combination of aromas made me feel, and what changes I chose to make in the meantime.
↳ I will probably decide to change the accords here and there, as well as the final structure, and perhaps even add new ingredients.
↳ In the next episode, I will talk about the safety protocols that should be put into practice when handling perfumery ingredients.
↳ Thank you for listening to this episode of the 'All Roads Lead to Aroma' podcast. If you enjoyed it, don't forget to subscribe — share with friends — leave a comment — or send an email to todososcaminhosvaodaraoaroma@gmail.com.
↳ I would love to know what kind of perfume you prefer to wear on rainy/winter days.
I chose a woody floral.
Send me an email telling me your choice.
Until next time.
[End of transcript]
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