Creating a Custom Perfume (for someone special) - Part II | EPI 020 Podcast All Roads Lead to Aroma
The podcast 'Todos os caminhos vão dar ao aroma' is a podcast sponsored by Jarilo. In this podcast, Mariana, the founder of Jarilo, explores the world of perfumery and tries to discover how perfume is made.
This article is the transcript of EPI 020. Creating a personalised perfume (for someone special) - part II
[Beginning of transcript]
↳ Hello everyone!
In this episode, we return to the segment 'Creating a personalised perfume (for someone special)' — in which I have been designing a perfume for my husband, Ricardo.
↳ It all began in episode 015, where Ricardo and I created a story — a story that could tell itself through the formula of this perfume, narrating itself aromatically to the noses that smell it — and we decided on the olfactory characteristics it should have — that is: we developed a CREATIVE BRIEF for the perfume, as well as a DESCRIPTIVE BRIEF of its aromatic characteristics.
↳ The task today will be to flowchart this story in DETAIL — and to each DETAIL associate one or more OLFACTORY DESCRIPTOR TERMS and — consequently — to each OLFACTORY DESCRIPTOR TERM associate one or more INGREDIENTS.
↳ I learned this methodology from Karen Gilbert (I will provide her link in the episode notes).
↳ To build this flowchart, I will use a mind-mapping application, in this case AYAO — but any other could serve this purpose well.
↳ I start by placing the said MAIN THEME in the center of the word map — which is synthesised in the following phrase: A HOUSE ON THE BEACH — and to this central phrase I will consequently link the various DETAILS established during part I of the project, in episode 015.
↳ Thus, the MAIN THEME — A HOUSE ON THE BEACH — branches into the following DETAILS:
↳ SMALL ONE-ROOM HOUSE
↳ WHITE LIMED WALLS
↳ RIGHT BY THE BEACH
↳ (THE YARD IS THE BEACH ITSELF)
↳ A VERY HOT SUMMER DAY.
↳ Subsequently, each of the five previous DETAILS will branch into new other DETAILS (all of which were specified and decided in episode 015).
↳ DETAIL number 1 — SMALL ONE-ROOM HOUSE — branches into the following SUB-DETAILS:
↳ WOODEN DOOR which in turn also branches into
↳ WOOD and
↳ PAINTED BLUE WITH FADED, PEELING PAINT and
↳ FROSTED GLASS PANE (SUN-DRENCHED).
↳ DETAIL number 2 — WHITE LIMED WALLS — branches into the following SUB-DETAILS:
↳ THICK WALLS
↳ BLUE AND WHITE TILES (INSIDE)
↳ CORNERS OF COOL SHADE (INSIDE)
↳ DETAIL number 3 — RIGHT BY THE BEACH — branches into the following SUB-DETAILS:
↳ SWALLOWS/SEAGULLS/SPARROWS (VARIOUS BIRDS)
↳ BREEZE/SEA AIR
↳ DETAIL number 4 — (THE YARD IS THE BEACH ITSELF) — branches into the following SUB-DETAILS:
↳ SAND (DUNES)
↳ ALOE VERAS
↳ MINT PLANTS
↳ LEMON TREES
↳ PINK PEPPER
↳ CLAY POTS
↳ METAL WATERING CAN IN A GREEN WHEELBARROW
↳ FRAGMENTS OF TRUNKS/REEDS (WOOD)
↳ DETAIL number 5 — A VERY HOT SUMMER DAY — branches into the following SUB-DETAIL:
↳ (HEAT).
↳ The next step is to associate one or more OLFACTORY DESCRIPTOR TERMS with each DETAIL and SUB-DETAIL — that is: to summarise the olfactory characteristics that these DETAILS and SUB-DETAILS convey to me.
↳ To the WHITE LIMED WALLS I associated:
↳ Dust/dusty.
↳ To the THICK WALLS I associated:
↳ Light, Transparent, Humid.
↳ To the BLUE AND WHITE TILES I associated:
↳ Fresh.
↳ To the CORNERS OF COOL SHADE I associated:
↳ Light, Transparent, Humid.
↳ To the WOODEN DOOR PAINTED BLUE WITH FADED, PEELING PAINT I associated:
↳ Peeling paint, Varnish.
↳ To the FROSTED GLASS PANE (SUN-DRENCHED) I associated:
↳ Heat, Transparent.
↳ To the WOOD I associated:
↳ Woody, Dry, Warm, Earth.
↳ To the SWALLOWS/SEAGULLS/SPARROWS I associated:
↳ Animal, Feathers, Hay.
↳ To the BREEZE/SEA AIR I associated:
↳ Sunscreen, Atmosphere, Fresh air, Salty, Water.
↳ To the SAND I associated:
↳ Mineral, Salty, Warm, (Dry).
↳ To the ALOE VERAS I associated:
↳ Green.
↳ To the MINT PLANTS I associated:
↳ Green, Menthol.
↳ To the LEMON TREES I associated:
↳ Citrus, Crystalline, Clear, Green, Yellow, Juicy, Zesty, Fresh.
↳ To the PINK PEPPER trees I associated:
↳ Peppery, Spices.
↳ To the CLAY POTS I associated:
↳ Dry, Mineral.
↳ To the METAL WATERING CAN IN A GREEN WHEELBARROW I associated:
↳ Metal, Rust.
↳ To the FRAGMENTS OF TRUNKS/REEDS I associated:
↳ Woody, Dry, Warm, Earth.
↳ And to A VERY HOT SUMMER DAY I associated:
↳ Heat, Extreme Temperature, Warm.
↳ Now, to each OLFACTORY DESCRIPTOR TERM I will associate one or more INGREDIENTS whose aromas offer such described and desired characteristics to the nose.
↳ I will start with the INGREDIENTS I already know and master — and then, if necessary, I will research and consult supplier websites in search of new/other INGREDIENTS that can bring the facets I deem most appropriate to the finalised formula of this perfume.
↳ This is a process that will take some time — and in the meantime, I will always revisit my MIND MAP and add INGREDIENTS to it — and sometimes even more DETAILS and SUB-DETAILS and also OLFACTORY DESCRIPTORS.
↳ In fact, while preparing this episode, I even made a few changes to my MIND MAP:
↳ To the DESCRIPTOR Dust/dusty I associated the INGREDIENTS:
↳ OE Geranium, ABS Rose.
↳ To the DESCRIPTOR Light I associated the INGREDIENTS:
↳ Bergamot, Iso E Super.
↳ To the DESCRIPTOR Transparent I associated the INGREDIENTS:
↳ Bergamot, Florol, Dihydromyrcenol, Hedione, Iso E Super.
↳ To the DESCRIPTOR Humid I associated:
↳ Geosmin, OE Petit Grain.
↳ To the DESCRIPTOR Fresh I associated:
↳ Bergamot, OE Sweet Orange, Stemone, Dihydromyrcenol, Florol, OE Neroli, Hedione.
↳ To the DESCRIPTOR Peeling paint, Varnish I associated:
↳ OE Patchouli.
↳ To the DESCRIPTOR Woody I associated:
↳ Cedar Wood, Cedramber, Polysantol, Iso E Super.
↳ To the DESCRIPTOR Dry I associated:
↳ Cedar Wood, Cedramber, Polysantol.
↳ To the DESCRIPTOR Warm I associated:
↳ Cedar Wood, Cedramber, Polysantol, Vanillin.
↳ To the DESCRIPTOR Earth I associated:
↳ Vetiver, Veramoss.
↳ I will not continue to recite these OLFACTORY DESCRIPTOR TERMS because there are indeed many and it would quickly become immensely tiresome to hear. But I believe that this methodology can already be understood.
↳ Now that I have a list of possible INGREDIENTS, in part III of this project I will finally begin to structure the ACCORDS, making them rhyme with each other, so that the FORMULA of this perfume goes from theory to practice.
↳ Next week we will continue with the segment started in episode 017 — PERFUMES FOR THE HOME: CREATING A ROOM SPRAY — and therefore it will be part II of that process.
↳ I also take this opportunity — and once again — to say that we have moved our Jarilo store and that it is now located not at
but at
↳ Thank you for listening to this episode of the podcast 'Todos os caminhos vão dar ao aroma'. If you liked it, don't forget to subscribe — share with friends — leave a comment — or send an email to todososcaminhosvaodaraoaroma@gmail.com.
↳ Send me an email about what characteristics you would like to find in a perfume made especially for you.
↳ Until next time.
[End of transcript]
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