How my taste changed after realizing the volatility of ingredients | Ep 027

The podcast 'Todos os caminhos vão dar ao aroma' is a podcast sponsored by Jarilo. In this podcast, Mariana, the founder of Jarilo, explores the world of perfumery and tries to discover how perfume is made.

This article is a transcript of EPI 027. How my taste changed when I understood the volatility of ingredients

[Start of transcript]

↳ In this episode, I want to talk about something that revolutionized the way I use perfumes from the moment I started studying perfumery.

↳ A few years ago, if a perfume didn't last all day, I immediately judged it to be not good.

One thing I valued greatly was the longevity of a perfume.

↳ For me, a good perfume had to last between 8 to 12 hours.

↳ For me, a good perfume was one that survived a full day of work; it was almost like an endurance test.

↳ Today, I no longer think that way.

↳ And the subject I needed to learn to finally change my mind was volatility.

↳ Smaller molecules are more volatile and evaporate faster.

↳ Larger molecules are less volatile and evaporate slower.

↳ The most volatile, smallest molecules are those we feel immediately upon application of the perfume: the top notes.

↳ The molecules that are neither too small nor too large are those we feel after the top notes have evaporated: the heart notes.

↳ The least volatile, largest molecules are those we feel when we no longer smell either the top notes or the heart notes: the base notes.

↳ This topic is complex, as nowadays there are materials (synthetic molecules) that are felt right at the opening and can be smelled until the end; but I'm simplifying.

↳ If, for example, we use a citrus perfume, its molecules [citrus, which are indeed volatile] will evaporate very quickly.

We cannot, therefore, demand that this family of perfumes has the same performance as a vanilla perfume, for example, being a base note.

↳ Of course, there are perfumers capable, with their mastery, of creating perfumes with more volatile notes that last a long time; but these are exceptions to the rule, quite rare.

↳ It's wonderful to find such exceptions, but other perfumes are also equally valid.

↳ And I also don't want to limit myself, nor limit my choice and my self-expression, just because of the performance of a certain perfume.

Nowadays, I no longer choose a perfume by its performance — because I have already realized that this is not synonymous with quality.

Besides, honestly, let's face it, many, many perfumes that have giant performances, the so-called beast mode, are not, in the end, very sophisticated — they are just a mixture of very potent ingredients, but often without any detail worthy of causing wonder to our sense of smell.

↳ That's why I prefer a perfume for the complexity of its notes, for what it makes me feel, for the memories that are sustained when I use it.

For me, now, performance is the least important thing. If I need to reapply the perfume, once or twice, I reapply, and that's it.

↳ I realized that the beauty of a perfume is not just in 'how long it lasts', but in what it intrinsically makes me feel, in the story its scent is telling me, in the place its breeze takes me.

↳ What I gained with this change is that I can now appreciate and value various types of perfumes; it was as if before I only read books of one literary genre and now I read a little bit of everything, from cover to cover, without limiting the streets of my thought-map.

↳ Thank you for listening to this episode of the podcast 'Todos os caminhos vão dar ao aroma'.

If you liked it, don't forget to subscribe — share with friends — leave a comment — or send an email to todososcaminhosvaodaraoaroma@gmail.com.

↳ I would like to inform you again that at JARILO we launched a free ebook — the complete guide where you can learn all the tricks to enhance the aromatic diffusion of your candles.

I will leave the respective link in the notes of this episode.

↳ And what if, the next time you choose a perfume, you find yourself thinking first about what you want to feel and not about how long the scent will last on your skin? Send me an email telling me your preferences.

↳ Until next time.

Happy olfactory experiences!

[End of transcript]

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