Olfactory Families | EPI 007 Podcast All Roads Lead to Aroma
The podcast 'Todos os caminhos vão dar ao aroma' is a podcast sponsored by Jarilo. In this podcast, Mariana, the founder of Jarilo, explores the world of perfumery and tries to discover how perfume is made.
This article is the transcript of EPI 007. Olfactory families
[Start of transcript]
↳In today's episode, I will talk about olfactory families. Olfactory families are categories that group ingredients and perfumes with similar characteristics. This organization is useful both for professionals developing a new perfume and for the average consumer choosing a new perfume. For example, I prefer to use perfumes from the floral family, although I also use perfumes from other olfactory families.
↳The most common families are: citrus, green, fruity, floral, aromatic, spice, aquatic, amber, gourmand, woody, animalic, and musk.
↳It is possible to distinguish and categorize ingredients and perfumes within these families by their characteristics.
↳Citrus scents are fresh, clean, and give a sensation of lemon peel or orange peel. Ingredients in this family include lemon essential oil, bergamot essential oil, and sweet orange essential oil.
↳Green scents are also fresh, natural notes with the smell of leaves, herbs, and freshly cut grass. Cis-3-Hexenol and Cassis Base are examples of ingredients in this family.
↳Aquatic scents smell of water, sea, air. Examples of ingredients are Calone, Floralozone.
↳Aromatic scents are herbaceous, fresh, and also a little green. Examples of ingredients are Lavender, Lavandin, Rosemary, Dihydromyrcenol.
↳Aldehyde C14, Aldehyde C18 (coco), and Raspberry Ketone belong to the fruity family, which are sweet, tropical, juicy with notes of non-citrus fruits.
↳Floral scents are rich, opulent, velvety, but also delicate and with a touch of talcum powder. Examples of ingredients are Rose, Jasmine, Ylang Ylang, Geraniol.
↳Gourmand scents are sweet, reminiscent of desserts and delicious foods. Examples of ingredients are Vanillin, Maltol, Coumarin.
↳And Musk scents are soft, clean, velvety. Examples of ingredients are Galaxolide, Cashmeran base.
↳The spice family is warmer, more comforting with an earthy, spicy smell. Examples of ingredients are black pepper, pink pepper, and cinnamon.
↳Amber scents are warm, deep with resin notes. Examples of ingredients are Labdanum, Ambroxan, and Vanilla.
↳Woody scents are dry, warm, and with earthy notes. Examples of ingredients are Sandalwood, Cedarwood, Vetiver, Iso E Super.
↳Animalic scents smell of leather, fur, they are intense. Examples of ingredients are Suederal, Iso Butyl Quinolin.
↳In episode 3, we studied 5 ingredients: vanilla from the amber family, Ylang Ylang, rose absolute, and orange blossom essential oil from the floral family, and Lavandin essential oil from the aromatic family.
↳In episode nine, we will study 5 more ingredients and I will explore other olfactory families.
↳A perfume usually belongs to one of these families or a mixture of families. For example, a perfume can be green floral, citrus floral, woody animalic, woody amber. The possible variations are almost endless. SANTAL 33 by "Le Labo" is a classic woody scent, while LIGHT BLUE by DOLCE & GABBANA is a citrus floral.
↳This knowledge is especially useful when we want to offer a perfume to someone. If we know which olfactory family the person we are giving the perfume to normally uses and we offer them a perfume from the same olfactory family, the probability of making a mistake decreases considerably.
↳In the next episode, I will talk about the exercises I do to distinguish very similar ingredients.
↳Thank you for listening to this episode of the podcast "Todos os caminhos vão dar ao aroma". If you liked it, don't forget to subscribe, share with friends, leave a comment or send an email to todososcaminhosvaodaraoaroma@gmail.com.
↳I would love to know if you have a favorite olfactory family. Send me an email telling me all about it.
See you next time
[End of transcript]
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