Smelling 4 new ingredients — first olfactive impressions | EPI 012 All Paths Lead to Aroma Podcast
The podcast 'Todos os caminhos vão dar ao aroma' is sponsored by Jarilo. In this podcast, Mariana, Jarilo's founder, explores the world of perfumery and tries to discover how perfume is made.
This article is the transcript of Episode 012. Smelling 4 new ingredients - initial olfactive impressions.
[Beginning of transcript]
↳ In today's episode, I will make olfactory acquaintance with FOUR new ingredients that I recently acquired.
I will therefore smell them for the first time, meticulously, in order to GRASP their profiles — the aromatic contours and re-contours OF EACH ONE.
↳ I will try to describe them as best as possible, based on the very first sensory impressions they cause me.
And, simultaneously, I will note all these observations in FOUR NEW RESPECTIVE SHEETS, which I will add to my OLFACTORY DIARY.
↳ The FOUR INGREDIENTS are:
BENZYL SALICYLATE
VERAMOSS
CEDRAMBER and
ETHYLENE BRASSYLATE.
↳ To help me in the olfactory analysis of these materials, I have here with me THE DATA PROVIDED BY THE SUPPLIER, as well as ALL THE INFORMATION THAT THE SCENTREE WEBSITE PROVIDES about them.
↳ To prepare the ingredients for this olfactory exercise, I will dilute each one to 10%.
↳ That is: I will place 1 gram of the ingredient and 9 grams of alcohol in each bottle.
↳ In the event that I still find them too strong to the smell, I will then dilute each one to 1%.
↳ I will initially smell the ingredients without consulting THE DATA PROVIDED BY THE SUPPLIER or THE INFORMATION THAT THE SCENTREE WEBSITE PROVIDES, to prevent my sense of smell from being influenced — thus keeping my mind completely open to any inaugural aromatic impressions.
↳ Let's begin.
↳ The first ingredient I'm going to smell is BENZYL SALICYLATE — already diluted to 10%.
↳What immediately catches my attention is the smell of sunscreen, it reminds me a lot of the beach, it's a bit floral and also synthetic.
↳The Scentree website actually states that this molecule is used in sunscreens and that it occurs naturally in ylang-ylang flowers.
↳I'm sure if I smelled this material, I would also recognize this sunscreen facet.
↳BENZYL SALICYLATE belongs to the floral family and is a heart note.
↳The second ingredient I'm going to smell is VERAMOSS — already diluted to 10%.
↳It has a soft, milky, creamy smell - I can't smell it very well, it smells like earth, like a forest.
↳VERAMOSS belongs to the woody family and is a base note.
↳The third ingredient I'm going to smell is CEDRAMBER — already diluted to 10%.
↳It smells of wood, a very dry smell, like dry leaves, it's a smell that is usually found in men's perfumes.
↳CEDRAMBER belongs to the woody family and is a base note.
↳The fourth — and last — ingredient I'm going to smell is ETHYLENE BRASSYLATE — already diluted to 10%.
↳It has a sweet smell, which expands and is quite enveloping. It's very similar to galaxolide.
↳The Scentree website says it's a musk with a vanilla facet, but I'm not noticing that facet.
↳ETHYLENE BRASSYLATE belongs to the musk family and is a base note.
↳I think the 10% dilutions I made are fine, I didn't find any ingredient too strong, so I won't dilute them further.
↳Among these 4 ingredients, the one that surprised me the most was BENZYL SALICYLATE for having a very familiar sunscreen smell.
↳The one I liked the most was ETHYLENE BRASSYLATE. It's a Musk and I love musks.
↳VERAMOSS and CEDRAMBER seemed to me to be two ingredients that can be used together in a perfume that evokes a walk in the forest.
↳And if VERAMOSS and CEDRAMBER are a walk in the forest, BENZYL SALICYLATE is a day at the beach and ETHYLENE BRASSYLATE is like a comforting hug.
↳ In the next episode, I'll talk about the many good reasons why someone would want to learn perfumery.
↳ Thank you for listening to this episode of the podcast 'Todos os caminhos vão dar ao aroma'. If you enjoyed it, don't forget to subscribe — share with friends — leave a comment — or send an email to todososcaminhosvaodaraoaroma@gmail.com.
↳ Until next time.
[End of transcript]
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