A perfume to evoke Spring - Part III | EPI 018 Podcast All Roads Lead to Aroma
The podcast 'All paths lead to aroma' is a podcast sponsored by Jarilo. In this podcast, Mariana, Jarilo's founder, explores the world of perfumery and tries to discover how a perfume is made.
This article is the transcript of EPI 018. A perfume to evoke Spring - part III
[Start of transcript]
↳ Today's episode consists of part III of the segment "A PERFUME TO EVOKE SPRING." Parts I and II can be found, respectively, in episodes 10 and 14 of this podcast.
↳ To remind those who listened, or to inform those who haven't heard the previous episodes:
↳ In this segment, I have been, little by little, conceptualizing and creating an original perfume of mine — a perfume whose formula is intended to be suitable for use on those harsh winter days when, with incessant rain, we have to leave home early in the morning and immediately feel that immense longing for sunny spring days — that is: a perfume capable of evoking Spring on a soggy, cold, and grey day.
↳ In Part I, in episode 10, I chose the ingredients I would work with, and structured the first accords.
↳ In Part II, in episode 14, I made changes to those same accords I had conceived in episode 10. And I planned to use the perfume during the following weeks, to test it and evaluate its aromatic performance.
↳ Throughout this interim period [that is: during the 4 weeks between epi. 014 and this epi. 018] I was testing this experimental version of the perfume on myself — throughout my daily life — and from that, I realized that I had to correct, once again, the FLORAL ACCORD. The perfume still doesn't have all that evident floral facet I want — and LAVANDIN continues to stand out too much.
↳ As for the MOLECULE ACCORD and the WARM ACCORD, these will remain unchanged for now — as they seem to me to be already in the correct proportions, suitable for what will be the FINAL FORMULA of my perfume.
↳ Returning to the FLORAL ACCORD:
As I had planned in episode 14, instead of working with YLANG YLANG diluted at 1%, I will work with it diluted at 10%.
↳ With such an increase in the concentration of YLANG YLANG in the formula, I hope to reinforce the floral, sweet, and slightly creamier side of this respective accord — in order to better balance it with BERGAMOT and reduce the current predominance of LAVANDIN.
↳ IF IT WAS PREVIOUSLY [in the proportion of 3 of BERGAMOT diluted at 10% to 2 of YLANG YLANG diluted at 1% to 1 of LAVANDIN diluted at 10%] — NOW IT IS [in the proportion of 3 of BERGAMOT diluted at 10% to 2 of YLANG YLANG diluted at 10% to 1 of LAVANDIN diluted at 10%].
↳ During episode 14, I had also thought about adding a GREEN NOTE to the formula — it seems like a good idea to further reinforce the presence of Spring in the perfume.
↳ Of the ingredients I know, I immediately thought of PETIT GRAIN EO and STEMONE. I smelled them individually on paper strips, and then I smelled each one combined with the most recent version of the FLORAL ACCORD, also on paper strips, to see which of the two ingredients better conveyed the GREEN NOTE I want to find in the perfume's FINAL FORMULA.
↳ That GREEN FACET that represents a sudden appearance of Spring, coming to illuminate and interrupt the winter deluge.
↳ When comparing the two ingredients, it became quite clear that PETIT GRAIN EO is more suitable for the effect I want, as it has a more diffuse and humid characteristic, almost rhyming with a vestigial smell of a last rain, unlike STEMONE which is a very concrete and mentholated aroma and which, in the end, seems a bit exaggerated for the formula.
↳ After choosing the ingredient for that new GREEN FACET, I altered the FLORAL ACCORD again.
↳ IF IT WAS PREVIOUSLY [in the proportion of 3 of BERGAMOT diluted at 10% to 2 of YLANG YLANG diluted at 10% to 1 of LAVANDIN diluted at 10%] — NOW IT IS [in the proportion of 6 of BERGAMOT diluted at 10% to 4 of YLANG YLANG diluted at 10% to 2 of LAVANDIN diluted at 10% to 1 of Petit Grain EO diluted at 1%].
↳ This new proportion is already quite close to what I want for this perfume: The ACCORD is indeed FLORAL, and warm, and creamy.
↳ After altering the FLORAL ACCORD, I combined the three accords — maintaining the COMBINATION PROPORTION used in episode 14.
↳ That is: today the proportion of ingredients WITHIN the FLORAL ACCORD was indeed altered — but even so, I did not alter the proportion with which, consequently, I combined this renewed FLORAL ACCORD with the WARM ACCORD and the MOLECULE ACCORD — thus making this, for now, the FINAL FORMULA of the perfume.
↳ That is: the COMBINATION PROPORTION is 6 of the FLORAL ACCORD to 1 of the WARM ACCORD to 2 of the MOLECULE ACCORD.
↳ I finally smelled this version of the perfume — and the first impressions make me believe that the formula is getting closer and closer to what I imagined at the beginning, in episode 10 — much closer to the final goal.
↳ I feel the perfume is much more floral — it has a diffuse facet that reminds me of rainy days — and yet it is pleasantly warm.
Will I really capture the entire olfactory narrative of Spring interrupting Winter when I wear it in the coming weeks?
↳ I will then evaluate the perfume on the skin, and I will return to this segment soon, in what will be part IV of this project.
↳ Seven days from now, in episode 19, I will resume the other project started in episode 15 — whose segment, in turn, is TO CREATE A CUSTOMIZED PERFUME (FOR SOMEONE SPECIAL).
↳ I also take this opportunity — and once again — to say that we have moved our Jarilo store and that it is now located not at
but at
↳ Thank you for listening to this episode of the podcast 'All paths lead to aroma'. If you liked it, don't forget to subscribe — share with friends — leave a comment — or send an email to todososcaminhosvaodaraoaroma@gmail.com.
↳ I ask you: Would you like to smell this perfume I'm making to evoke spring?
Send me an email so I can find out.
↳ Until next time.
[End of transcript]
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