What was left unsaid in the last episode | EP 035
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The podcast 'Todos os caminhos vão dar ao aroma' is sponsored by Jarilo. In this podcast, Mariana, the founder of Jarilo, explores the world of perfumery and tries to discover how perfumes are made.
This article is the transcript of EPI 035. What was left unsaid in the last episode
[Beginning of transcript]
↳ In the previous episode, I showed you a super-simplification of how to make a perfume. The goal was for you to be able to create a perfume, to move from theory to finally getting your hands dirty. And for your first result to be your "least good" perfume, your primordial starting point from which everything could only improve.
↳ I wanted you to have a practical step-by-step guide, with little theory to get in the way. But in the name of simplification, I left certain things unsaid.
↳ If you haven't listened to the previous episode, you should do so, as only then will today's episode make sense to you.
↳ When I told you to choose 3 essential oils, I omitted the first rule of Perfumery. Which is TO KNOW YOUR INGREDIENTS.
↳ So, before choosing to work with any material, you should first study it in isolation.
↳ You should smell it and describe it, noting its olfactory characteristics on a piece of paper, in detail. It's important to write by hand, not on the computer. Information is better memorized and retained if written by hand.
↳ By doing this, you will gradually build your mental library of olfactory materials, and thus deepen the pages of what will become your OLFACTORY DIARY.
↳ Here on the podcast, there has already been an episode dedicated exclusively to this topic: it is episode number 3. And there are also several other episodes dedicated to my exercise of smelling, knowing, and describing different materials. All these episodes are identified with the title "OLFACTORY DIARY". And the next number 36 will also be one of those episodes.
↳ Another thing I ended up omitting, but which should be done even before choosing the 3 essential oils, is to define the perfume's profile.
↳ It's important to decide whether we want a fresh or warm perfume, and what its main olfactory family will be. Whether it should be a more realistic or abstract perfume, more airy or more structured, sweet or not sweet, dry or humid. Whether it's for summer or winter. Among other things that each person will have to choose and decide.
↳ After these characteristics are decided and the available materials are well studied, it becomes much easier to choose the materials we specifically want to work with.
↳ Regarding the evaluation of your perfume, I had told you (in the previous episode) to understand what you liked and disliked within its resulting profile and performance.
↳ But now I say that you should, in addition, understand if the resulting profile is in accordance with the profile you had idealized in your heads, if it is in accordance with what was planned.
↳ That is, for example: if you idealized that the perfume's profile should be warm, sweet, realistic, dry, and woody, you should then check in practice if the perfume actually resulted with such characteristics or not. And therefore, if you have done the exercise of evaluating and knowing the ingredients one by one well, you will now know how to identify which material to increase, decrease, or exclude from your formula, to improve it.
↳ But make no mistake: this is not so much a continuous and strictly logical process, but rather a process with its own counter-intuitive aspect, applying somewhat retroactively. It is very important that you make your perfume first, before these steps I spoke about today.
↳ And then, with these complementary steps, it is now much easier to correct what you may have done wrong, and in this way, your learning becomes smoother, faster, and more effective.
↳ I also don't want you to get stuck, to get blocked by the imposing bulk of theory. It's better to have a mediocre but instinctive and real perfume in your hand, a perfume that actually exists, than to just have an idea of a perfume in your head that never gets materialized and smelled. You have to take risks and create.
↳ In the next episode, we will then study 5 more materials and add them to our OLFACTORY DIARY.
↳ Thank you for listening to this episode of the podcast 'Todos os caminhos vão dar ao aroma'. If you liked it, don't forget to subscribe — share with friends — leave a comment — or send an email to todososcaminhosvaodaraoaroma@gmail.com.
↳ I remind you that Jarilo has launched a new collection — the Four Elements Collection. I will leave the respective link in the episode notes.
↳ I will also leave the link to our WhatsApp community. Here you can access exclusive JARILO offers and news.
↳ Describe the scent of these new perfumes you created to me by email — and what stories are told through their aromas.
↳ Until next time.
Happy olfactory experiences!
[End of transcript]
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