Let's study some raw materials and create an olfactory journal | EP 036
The podcast 'All paths lead to aroma' is a podcast sponsored by Jarilo. In this podcast, Mariana, the founder of Jarilo, explores the world of perfumery and tries to discover how perfumes are made.
This article is the transcript of EPI 036. We will study some raw materials and create an olfactory diary.
[Start of transcript]
↳ Hello everyone! Welcome to another episode of All Paths Lead to Aroma.
↳ Today we will study 5 more ingredients and, from there, continue to 'feed' our olfactory diary. These episodes are among my favourites; studying ingredients is one of the things I enjoy doing the most; something I consider truly fascinating.
↳ For those who just arrived here, without having watched any of the previous episodes:
An olfactory diary consists of my personal listing of Perfumery ingredients that I study, by means of descriptive sensory/olfactory notes of them.
↳ If you want to know more about vanilla, ylang ylang, rose absolute, neroli EO and lavandin, listen to episode 003. In episode 009 I covered sweet orange EO, cedarwood EO, pink pepper EO, cis-3-Hexenol and galaxolide. In episode 012 I smelled benzyl salicylate, veramoss, cedramber and ethylene brassylate for the first time. In episode 016, petitgrain, eugenol, ambroxan, hedione, and bergamot EO. In episode 019, lemon EO, cassis base, stemone, iso e super and florol. In episode 026, geranium EO, vetiver EO, Ionone Alpha, coumarin and maltol.
↳ Today, we will get to know raspberry Ketone, methyl pamplemousse, PEA, damascone beta and rose oxide better. For this episode, I chose only synthetic molecules.
↳ The first ingredient I'm going to smell is Raspberry Ketone — from the fruity family, considered both a heart note and a base note, and which is diluted to 10%.
↳ I started with this ingredient because I can't smell it very well. I hardly notice it. This has happened to me with some ingredients, with hedione for example, but over time I acquired the ability to smell them.
↳ Anyway, I feel a very subtle and almost imperceptible fruity nuance. And I confess I don't know if I really feel it or if I'm being influenced by my prior knowledge.
↳ The second ingredient I'm going to smell is methyl pamplemousse — from the citrus family, a top note, and which is diluted to 10%.
↳ Although it belongs to the citrus family, I feel a more fruity facet, which reminds me of plum. It is very fresh and pungent.
↳ It's sweet, and it's a smell I really like.
↳ The third ingredient I'm going to smell is PEA — from the floral family, a heart note, and which is diluted to 10%.
↳ PEA has a smell that reminds me a lot of rose petals. A little metallic. It is very sweet and has a honey nuance.
↳ I really like this smell, it's warm and reminds me of a flower garden.
↳ The fourth ingredient I'm going to smell is damascone beta — from the floral family, a heart note, and which is diluted to 1%.
↳ Although it belongs to the floral family, I smell fruit, that smell of mixed fruits like in a freshly made fruit salad. I also feel a minty facet.
↳ It's fresh and sweet, very pungent. If this material were a place, it would be a fruit market.
↳ The fifth (and for today, last) ingredient I'm going to smell is rose oxide — from the floral family, a heart note, and which is at 1%.
↳ This ingredient is, for me, the most exotic of the 5. Because it has a metallic smoky smell. But also floral. The image that comes to mind when I smell this ingredient is of someone welding a metal flower. It's a very dense, warm smell. It's a dirty smell.
↳ I invite you to study Perfumery ingredients, and to create your own olfactory diary. For me, it is an extraordinary experience that never ceases to surprise.
↳ Thank you for listening to this episode of the podcast 'All paths lead to aroma'. If you liked it, don't forget to subscribe — share with friends — leave a comment — or send an email to todososcaminhosvaodaraoaroma@gmail.com.
↳ At Jarilo, we are launching a new collection — and those in the WhatsApp community will have early access and special conditions. I will leave the respective link in the episode notes.
↳ See you next time.
Happy olfactory experiences!
[End of transcript]
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