How to distinguish similar smells in perfumery (training your nose by comparing ingredients)

Introduction

One of the biggest difficulties when you start learning perfumery is this:

"This smells similar... but I can't explain why"

Distinguishing similar ingredients is one of the most important skills for developing your sense of smell.

In this article, you will learn:

  • why it's difficult to distinguish smells
  • how to train your sense of smell through comparison
  • a practical method for differentiating similar ingredients

Why is it difficult to distinguish similar smells?

When you are starting out:

  • the brain does not yet have references
  • smells seem "the same"
  • lack of vocabulary

It's completely normal. But there is an effective way to train:

Comparing similar ingredients side by side

The most important exercise: direct comparison

Not studying isolated smells but comparing two or more ingredients

For example:

  • two citruses
  • two green notes
  • two florals

This forces the brain to identify differences.

How to distinguish similar ingredients (step-by-step)

1. Choose similar ingredients

Examples:

  • lemon vs bergamot
  • lavender vs lavandin
  • cedar vs sandalwood

They should have some similarity, but not be identical.

2. Smell side by side

Don't smell at separate times.

Smell one → then the other → go back to the first

3. Look for differences (not similarities)

Common mistake: "both are fresh"

The goal is to: understand what changes

Example:

  • one drier
  • another sweeter
  • one greener
  • another rounder

4. Describe in detail

Avoid names. "smells like lavender"

Write:

  • aromatic
  • herbal
  • slightly sweet
  • dry

This develops olfactory vocabulary

5. Record everything

Write down:

  • differences
  • intensity
  • evolution

This creates olfactory memory

What happens when you compare smells

When you do this exercise regularly:

The brain starts to "fine-tune"

You go from:

  • "this smells the same"

to:

  • "this one is fresher, that one warmer"

This is where your sense of smell evolves.

Practical example of distinction

Two ingredients from the same family can be completely different.

For example:

  • two citruses → one can be sweeter, the other more acidic
  • two green notes → one wetter, the other drier

Common mistake when training your sense of smell

❌ Smelling isolated ingredients
❌ Not comparing
❌ Not recording

This greatly slows down learning

How to integrate this training into your daily life

You can do simple sessions:

  • choose 2–3 ingredients
  • compare for 10 minutes
  • record differences

Consistency > quantity

Conclusion

Distinguishing similar ingredients is one of the most important steps in perfumery.

With practice, you will start to perceive nuances that previously seemed invisible.

🎧 Listen to the full episode

This article was inspired by episode 008 of the podcast Todos os Caminhos Vão Dar ao Aroma (All Roads Lead to Aroma), where I explore how to distinguish similar ingredients through practical exercises.

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