A perfume to evoke Spring - part II | EPI 014 Podcast All Roads Lead to Aroma
The podcast 'Todos os caminhos vão dar ao aroma' is a podcast sponsored by Jarilo. In this podcast, Mariana, the founder of Jarilo, explores the world of perfumery and tries to discover how perfume is made.
This article is the transcript of EPI 014. A perfume to evoke Spring - part II
[Beginning of transcript]
↳ Today I will continue with the creation of my PERFUME TO EVOKE SPRING, this being the second part of the ongoing process.
The first part was covered in episode 010 — if you haven't watched it yet, I advise you to start there and only then return to this present episode, so that you can follow the entire process in a linear and comprehensive way.
↳ During this entire intermediate period [that is: during the 4 weeks between epi. 010 and this epi. 014] I tested the perfume on myself throughout my daily life, and from that, I realized that I had to correct its FLORAL ACCORD and WARM ACCORD.
↳ I am going to change the FLORAL ACCORD because I think LAVANDIN [in this proportion] stands out too much, even excessively — and its smell takes on slightly insecticidal and, thus, somewhat unpleasant contours — and furthermore, what I want for this perfume is something undeniably floral and creamy.
↳ As for the WARM ACCORD — I will have to change it because the VANILLIN also stands out too much [above all other ingredients]. After a few hours of wearing the perfume, it seemed to only smell of VANILLIN.
↳ Therefore, I decided to change the proportion of ingredients in the FLORAL ACCORD:
↳ IF IT WAS PREVIOUSLY [in the proportion of 3 of BERGAMOT to 1 of YLANG YLANG to 1 of LAVANDIN] — NOW IT IS [in the proportion of 3 of BERGAMOT to 2 of YLANG YLANG to 1 of LAVANDIN].
↳ The objective of this change is for the floral and exotic facet of YLANG YLANG to gain more impact in the perfume.
↳ I think this new accord is closer to what I want — but it still doesn't smell much of flowers.
↳ In the WARM ACCORD I want to reduce the proportion of VANILLIN as I find it too present.
↳ I will also add another ingredient, [ETHYLENE BRASSYLATE] — which is part of the MUSK family and which I smelled for the first time in episode 012 — and which according to the SCENTREE website has a vanilla background. I was very curious to try it in this accord.
↳ IF IT WAS PREVIOUSLY [in the proportion of 1 of POLYSANTOL to 2 of VANILLIN] — NOW IT IS [in the proportion of 1 of POLYSANTOL to 1 of ETHYLENE BRASSYLATE to 0.5 of VANILLIN].
↳ I think this new proportion is much more harmonious — closer to what I want — and I hope that VANILLIN no longer stands out too much [above all other ingredients].
↳ The previous version of this accord smelled very smoky, it reminded me of whiskey, giving a more bohemian and nocturnal vibe — and that was not what I actually wanted for my perfume.
↳ This accord also sparked my curiosity to [in the future] design a very simple room spray with the same ingredients.
↳ As for the MOLECULE ACCORD, I have no need or intention to change it.
↳ As for the final formula — which consists of the combination of the three accords — the FLORAL ACCORD plus the WARM ACCORD plus the MOLECULE ACCORD — I will also change their respective proportions — rebalancing my perfume.
↳ IF IT WAS PREVIOUSLY [in the proportion of 4 of FLORAL ACCORD to 1 of WARM ACCORD to 2 of MOLECULE ACCORD] — NOW IT IS [in the proportion of 6 of FLORAL ACCORD to 1 of WARM ACCORD to 2 of MOLECULE ACCORD].
↳ I will wear this perfume over the next few weeks, to see how it behaves and evolves on the skin throughout the day. But I must already state that I am not completely satisfied with the FLORAL ACCORD — as it still does not have the desired impact.
↳ The next step will be to work with YLANG YLANG diluted to 10% instead of 1% — to see if I can correct this problem in the FLORAL ACCORD.
↳ I also thought it might be a good idea to add a green note to the formula — to further evoke the spring season.
↳ In next week's episode I will start a new project — I will start to design a personalized perfume, that is: for another person.
↳ Thank you for listening to this episode of the podcast 'Todos os caminhos vão dar ao aroma'. If you liked it, don't forget to subscribe — share with friends — leave a comment — or send an email to todososcaminhosvaodaraoaroma@gmail.com.
↳ Until next time.
[End of transcript]
Listen to the Podcast here
Offer:
COMPLETE GUIDE: HOW TO ENHANCE THE AROMATIC DIFFUSION OF YOUR CANDLES will teach/reveal to the reader all the secrets to ensure that your candles release maximum aroma.
Click here to receive your guide