What are the ingredients in perfumes? A complete guide to raw materials in perfumery

Introduction

Have you ever wondered what a perfume is made of?

Many people think that perfumes are just a mixture of essential oils, but the reality is much more complex.

There are different types of raw materials, with distinct origins, extraction methods, and olfactory characteristics.

In this guide, you will discover:

  • what types of ingredients exist in perfumery
  • how they are extracted
  • and how they influence the final scent of a perfume

What are raw materials in perfumery?

In perfumery, raw materials are all the ingredients used to create a fragrance.

They can be:

  • natural
  • synthetic
  • or a combination of both

Each has a specific role in the construction of the perfume.

Essential oils: the best-known ingredients

Essential oils are probably the most popular ingredients in perfumery.

They are extracted from:

  • flowers
  • leaves
  • roots
  • fruit peels

How are they extracted?

There are two main methods:

🌿 Cold pressing

  • mainly used for citrus fruits (lemon, orange, bergamot)
  • does not use heat
  • better preserves the original scent

🌸 Distillation

  • oldest method
  • uses heat
  • can slightly alter the aroma of the raw material

Impressive example: about 4500 kg of petals are needed to produce 1 kg of rose essential oil

Extraction with carbon dioxide (CO₂)

This method is less known but very important.

How it works:

  • CO₂ is compressed until it becomes liquid
  • acts as a solvent
  • extracts aromatic compounds

Advantages:

  • better preserves the aroma
  • uses low temperatures
  • ideal for delicate ingredients

Widely used to extract complex aromas like vanilla

Absolutes, concretes, and resinoids

These ingredients are obtained using solvents.

Process:

  1. a "concrete" (dense substance) is obtained
  2. it is purified with alcohol
  3. resulting in an "absolute"

Characteristics:

  • very concentrated
  • rich and complex
  • highly valued in perfumery

Example: about 400 kg of jasmine are needed to produce 1 kg of absolute

Ingredients of animal origin

Historically, perfumery used ingredients of animal origin such as:

  • ambergris
  • musk
  • civet
  • castoreum

These ingredients were valued for:

  • fixing the perfume
  • adding depth

Nowadays:
They are almost always replaced by synthetic alternatives due to ethical concerns

Synthetic molecules: the present of perfumery

Synthetic ingredients are fundamental in modern perfumery.

They can be:

  • copies of natural molecules
  • or entirely new creations

Advantages:

  • greater control
  • more consistency
  • often more sustainable
  • lower cost

Without synthetic molecules, many modern perfumes would not exist.

Physical states of raw materials

Ingredients do not only exist in liquid form.

They can be:

  • liquids (oils, absolutes)
  • solids (resins, waxes)
  • powders or crystals

This influences how they are used in formulation.

How ingredients are organized in perfumery

Raw materials can be classified in various ways:

By volatility

  • evaporate quickly or slowly

By olfactive family

  • floral
  • citrus
  • woody
  • spicy

These classifications help build the perfume's structure.

Why is it important to know the ingredients?

In perfumery, there is an essential idea:

You don't create without knowing

Understanding the ingredients allows you to:

  • choose perfumes better
  • develop your sense of smell
  • create more coherent fragrances

Conclusion

A perfume is much more than a pleasant smell.

It is the result of:

  • different raw materials
  • extraction methods
  • creative decisions

And the more you know the ingredients:
The more conscious your relationship with scent becomes.

🎧 Listen to the full episode

This article was inspired by episode 005 of the podcast Todos os Caminhos Vão Dar ao Aroma (All Roads Lead to Aroma), where I explore this topic in a more personal way.

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